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It would be easier to troubleshoot your install if you could supply a diagram or drawing of the wiring in your wall boxes.

Anyway, for the HA20 install, the HA20 switch requires a HOT wire to be supplied to the BLACK wire of the HA20. The BLUE wire gets connected in series to the LOAD that the HA20 is controlling. If you are going to use the 3-way feature with a regular single-pole wall switch, the RED wire from the HA20 will connect to one side of the regular single-pole wall switch, and the other side of the regular single-pole wall switch gets connected to back to the same wire that is connected to the BLUE wire from the HA20.

The RED wire on the HA20 is the sensing wire that is detecting a change in state of the LOAD or the single-pole switch.

If you can supply a labelled diagram of your install, I'm sure that we can probably figure out what is happening with your HA20.

If you accidentally wired HOT to the RED wire, you will not harm the HA20.

Will the HA20C work with compact fluorescents as long as there is a total wattage that exceeds the 40 watt minimum?

I stumbled across this thread looking for answers to the same problem. Here is the deal:

 I have an existing three-way. I put my HA14 on one side. The box had a group of white wires connected together, and 3-way switch with one black wire attached to the 'Black' terminal and a red and a black wire attached to the opposite side. I managed to hook up the wires to the HA14 so that it works, but when I switch the remote switch off, the light can't be turned back on at all - even if I manually touch the HA14's switch or use the remote. If I turn the remote switch back on, the HA14 will not automatically go back on, but I can control it with the switch itself or the remote.

 I'm guessing that I need to re-wire the remote switch, so that it doesn't 'short' out the HA14, but here's the thing- there are three wires on that one too. According to the HA14 wiring diagram, the third pole isn't used, but I can't figure out where the extra wire should be connected? Do I just cap it, or do I need to combine it with another wire?

Thanks for your help,

--Yonah

With any regular electrical 3 way light circuit, one switch will be closer to the power source, and the other switch will be closer to the light.

 Power----(3 way switch)======(3 way switch)---Light

There's neutral that connects power to light without going through any switch but the above drawing is the limit of my ASCII art.

 I suspect you have your HA14C installed in place of the switch that is closer to the light. Can you verify?

The second wiring diagram on the last page of the HA14C installation guide shows how you should connect it.

 http://www.smarthome-products.com/productspecs/HA14C-manual.pdf